Tag Archives: beaches


Saturday 21st to Thursday 26th September 2013

This was our fastest start – up at 6:30 and on the road at 8!

We first went to the Burrup Peninsula which is, nowadays, an awkward mix of ultra modern oil and gas facilities (pipelines from offshore fields come ashore here), and timeless aboriginal art. We, of course, were after the art but were rather disappointed. Perhaps we were at the wrong place, or did not venture far enough, but what we saw was not as good as what we saw near Newman. I don’t have any decent photos so will have to leave you with a gas flare!

Gas Flare
Gas flare seen fro the Aboriginal art area on the Burrup Peninsula

HERE is a link to our route and photos taken between Dampier and Exmouth.

Part of our route from Dampier to Exmouth

The route was long and tedious – lots and lots of not very much.

Part of our route from Dampier to the Exmouth area

It did become more interesting as we drove up North West Cape along Exmouth Gulf. There are some expensive looking properties with boat anchorages.


Ningaloo Saturday
Detail of our route in the Exmouth Peninsula

When we got to Exmouth we stopped at the Visitor Centre and booked a bungalow at the Lighthouse Caravan Park seventeen km beyond the town – we fancied a bit of luxury and wanted to be assured of our bed before driving onwards.

We were told that accommodation in the Cape Range National Park, if you have not booked in advance, is assigned on a first come, first served basis at the camp entrance, when the ranger comes on duty at 9 in the morning.

Then into town to get some supplies. At the Caravan Park we signed in and settled into our nice bungalow.

Sunday 22nd September

We got to the Ranger station at 8:30 and joined the queue. 45 minutes later we got to the front of the queue and found that the only camp sites available were on the other side of Yardie Creek. This is a long way south and a very long way from Exmouth and possibilities of resupply. So we decided not to go there.

We decided that we would stay at the Yardie Homestead Caravan Park. This is nowhere near Yardie Creek! In fact it is north of the park, on the road to Exmouth. Because I was feeling a bit under the weather and my back was complaining about too much activity, we decided not to camp but to indulge ourselves with a chalet. And we decided to stay for five nights.

After lunch we headed north, had a swim and went up to the lighthouse which gives its name to last nights accommodation. Then back home for a barbecue.

And the temporary filling I got in Port Hedland proved all too temporary! It came out – I will get it replaced when I get back to the UK.

HERE is a link to today’s route and pictures. This includes tomorrows activities.

Monday 23rd September

This was rather a lazy day. Taking advantage of the availability of a pay phone and telephone card at the camp site, we arranged where we would stay on our way back to Perth. Shark Bay was on our list so we arranged four nights at a place near there, also a place on the way – it was  450 miles to Shark Bay!

Then we hired snorkel, masks and flippers from the camp site and headed off to the Lakeside snorkelling area in the National Park.

Lakeside Snorkel Area
The Lakeside Snorkel Area. the white at the skyline is the edge of the reef. The back reef runs from the waters edge to the reef. The fore reef is the slope beyond the reef down to the deep sea floor. It is covered in broken coral.

But it was very disappointing. There was a strong current from the south west and this stirred up a lot of sand, making the water very murky and visibility poor. Also the current meant that you had to paddle like fury to stay in one place.

We stayed in long enough to see that there was a lot of coral and lots of fishes but we were soon back on shore.

Lakeside Snorkel Area
Chris suffering from being unable to snorkel at Lakeside Snorkel Area

We tried again after lunch but conditions were even worse. So we packed up and headed south to look at Turquoise Beach and Mandu Mandu Gorge. We found lots of coral fossils in the gorge – the formation includes Middle Miocene coral reefs, mirroring the modern ones offshore.

HERE is a link to today’s route and pictures. This includes yesterdays activities.

Tuesday 24th September

Tuesday morning was a very lazy time, hanging about the chalet, watching the emus walking past. After lunch we drove south of Exmouth and headed for the hills.

There are a couple of tracks which lead into the Cape range. One goes along a valley – Shothole Canyon Road – and the other goes along a ridge – Charles Knife Road. Both roads were made when the area was being explored for oil deposits.

Shotover Gorge
Our truck parked at the end of the Shothole Canyon Road

Shothole Canyon gets its name from the shallow holes drilled for explosives to aid the seismic exploration of the area. Strangely enough someone found another reason to visit the canyon. See HERE.

Charles Knife Road goes up to the top of the Cape Range to an old wellhead where an oil exploration well was drilled. Parts of the road go along knife edged ridges but that is not the reason for the name. Charles Knife worked for the oil company and laid out the line of the road.

Charles Knife Road
View toward the Indian Ocean from the Charles Knife Road

After our tour of the inland bits of the Cape Range we returned to Exmouth and bought our supper from a local fish merchant – there is a lot of fishing in the area.

HERE is a link to today’s route and pictures. This includes tomorrows short excursion.

Wednesday 25th September

This was a remarkably lazy day! Most of it was spent round the Caravan Park. Before lunch we went to a nearby beach to see if we could see turtles – we couldn’t so we sunbathed.

Chris on the beach
Chris on the beach

Late afternoon we went back to this mornings beach and watched the local windsurfers. Then walked south to something odd we could see in the distance.

Turtles mating on the beach
Turtles mating on the beach. Romance plays an unimportant part in the process.

It turned out to be turtles mating – but we originally thought that the big one was dead! The owner of the caravan site told us what was really going on.  The female has a gash on the back of her neck which you can see in the photo HERE.

HERE is a link to today’s route and pictures. Includes yesterdays route and photos.

Thursday 26th September

After breakfast we decided that we were not beach people and that we would not go to Shark Bay. We much preferred the inland parts of Western Australia. You might conjecture this by the number of photos I took on the coast compared to inland. So we phoned and cancelled our Shark Bay booking.

For our last day on the coast we decided to give snorkelling one last chance and hired what we needed and headed to South Mandu Beach.

And found that the sea was too rough to snorkel! So carried on south to look at Yardie Creek. It does not reach the sea but the pool extends up the gorge. We resisted taking the boat trip up the gorge.

Yardie Creek
Looking inland up Yardie Creek

After lunch (at the Caravan Park) we tried our snorkels at Oyster Stacks but again the sea was too rough, but we had better luck at Turquoise Beach. The water was turbid but at least we got the snorkels wet.

At Turquoise Beach
Corulla eating grass seeds at Turquoise Beach
At Turquoise Beach
Golden sand, turquoise sea, blue sky – another boring Western Australia beach!

HERE is a link to today’s route and pictures.

Eighty Mile Beach

Tuesday 17th to Wednesday 18th September 2013

We set off from Middle Lagoon and got through the sandy road without incident. We refuelled at Roebuck and made good time to the caravan park at Eighty Mile Beach.

HERE is  a link to our route from Middle Lagoon to Eighty Mile Beach. Also my walk along the beach on Wednesday. Open with Google Earth once downloaded.

Our camp site at Eighty Mile Beach
Our camp site at Eighty Mile Beach

I thought the Dampier Peninsula was sandy but Eighty mile Beach is even more so – see the geological map below!

Geological map of the Eighty Mile Beach area

Whereas the beach at Middle Lagoon was deserted, here it was relatively crowded with fishermen. There seemed to be some sort of agreement that they keep a certain distance apart. They fish at certain stages of the tide and woe betide bathers when the fishermen are about!

Fishermen at Eighty Mile Beach
Carefully spaced fishermen at Eighty Mile Beach

We were closer to our neighbours than we had been in previous camp sites, which was no bad thing. One set of neighbours, on hearing that my birthday was imminent gave me a nice present – a  photograph of a Blue Winged Kookaburra which she had taken a few days earlier.

My birthday present from our camp site neighbours - a blue winged kookaburra
My birthday present from our camp site neighbours – a blue winged kookaburra

You keep bumping into people you met previously, which is not very surprising – there is a limited number of places one can go to.

But Eighty mile Beach has two sorts of people – those staying for just a day or two and the longer residents, And the longer residents are here for the fish!

Fishermen at Eighty Mile Beach
The tide is in so the fishermen are out – swim at your peril!

The second day I walked along the beach and did 3 miles out and 3 miles back – I can well believe it stretches for 80 miles. But you can collect lots of shells.

Fishermen at Eighty Mile Beach
There is 80 miles of this but I don’t think the fishermen extend all the way along!

So as we headed south along the coast we found things, by Australian standards, were getting more crowded.

Middle Lagoon

Sunday 15th to Monday 16th September 2013

After a regrouping for a couple of days in Broome – 3 machines at the laundromat!, eating at Matso’s, buying pearls, looking at the very hippyish street market, replenishing our food stocks – we set off for Middle Lagoon on the Dampier Peninsula.

Most of the journey was on dirt roads or, more accurately, sand roads. These were rather challenging as it was difficult to see shadows and therefore undulations came as a surprise. And some of the undulations were large! However we managed to stay on the road and got to Middle Lagoon unharmed.

HERE is a link to our route from Broome to Middle Lagoon. Open with Google Earth once downloaded.

Geological map of part of the Dampier Peinsula

The geological map confirms my impression that the Dampier Peninsula is a pile of sand anchored by bits of Cretaceous rock!

On arrival at the caravan and camp site we were told that a salt water croc had been see a few days earlier and therefore sea bathing was discouraged – not a great loss for us. We pitched our tent and went to look at the beach.

Chris on the beach, Middle Lagoon
Chris on the beach, Middle Lagoon. Note the line of rocks going through her head. I think that is an aboriginal fish trap.

The tide was out and there were great areas of sand exposed. At one bay, just below our tent, we saw a line of stones across the bay which, I suspect, was a fish trap. At high tide the fish go to the landward side of the trap. As the tide falls they are trapped in the ever diminishing pool of water and can be collected at your leisure. The dam is incomplete and we did not see any trapped fish.

Chris on the beach, Middle Lagoon
Chris on the beach, Middle Lagoon

After supper I was using a toothpick and out came a large filling! I was from a molar and was not painful, but I decided That I needed to get it fixed soon.

The next day I went for a long walk along the beach. Once I was away from the camp site I was on my own. Lovely, lonely beaches seem to be an Australian speciality! And once again I noticed that the headlands, protecting the coast are Cretaceous sandstone. Everything else is sand.

HERE is a link to my wanderings at Middle Lagoon. Open with Google Earth once downloaded.

The beach at Middle Lagoon
Looking back towards the camp site from the beach at Middle Lagoon
The beach at Middle Lagoon
Looking away from the camp site along the beach at Middle Lagoon

After my walk Chris and I decided to sit on the beach – not one of our favourite occupations – and enjoy the sun.

Chris on the beach, Middle Lagoon
On the beach. we were not disturbed by crocodiles or anything else.

As you may gather, neither Chris nor I are beach people, so we began to think that a return to Perth along the coast might not be what we wanted.

But here is one last look at the beach at Middle Lagoon, with some mangroves!

The beach at Middle Lagoon
Mangroves on the beach, middle Lagoon